The case for straight!

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Golf equipment (clubs and balls) makers have invested a lot in developing ways to make the ball go straight. There are balls that actually make it difficult to shape your shot. Yes, you can still do it, but it takes more effort. Lower spin rates and higher trajectories contribute to greater distance off the tee. This has become the "way to approach the game". Hit hit big. It does however require that you adapt the rest of your game to the characteristics of this type of ball flight, feel and ground behavior.

I've always played the game with a shape in mind for every full shot. Whether it was a fade or a draw - even just slightly - I've always felt more comfortable having a shape intention. It was part of my image of how the shot would be played.

I'm now suggesting that the ball and the clubs may have reached the point where "straight" needs to become the idea, the intention and the new image to employ. The equipment is such that (if necessary) you can create a shape. I still think you need this capability in your game. However, the margin for error (unintended shape / side spin) is wider than ever. You can choose to just go ahead and try to hit it straight at your target. With the minimized side spin effect, this may be the path to better golf.

Or not.
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Compete or don't play

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I enjoy playing golf - usually. I like to compete. If I'm not competing, I feel like it has to be treated as practice or it's just a waste of time. I've played some pretty bad golf. It's usually accompanied by a lack of focus. Sometimes I find myself unable to stay interested and I don't really care. I just "go through the motions". That's not much fun and it produces poor results.
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Painting

• Advice for exterior painting:
  
  Scrape and wire brush your surfaces. Don't think you can just seal the old paint in. If it's loose - even just a little - it needs to come off.
  
  Use a healthy drop cloth. By healthy I mean one that isn't going to rip and certainly not made of nonabsorbent plastic (oh no). Get a big one and toss that bad boy between you and anything that doesn't want to get painted.
  
  Have an absorbent rag handy. You'll need it.
  
  Use latex only. You are not qualified to use oil based paints. No - you're not. Trust me.
  
  Don't paint from the can. The can is awkward and not ideal for the purpose. Get a lightweight container well suited for the purpose - one that you can easily handle. Fill it to 1/3 only. That's it.
  
  Use a brush with angled bristles. This will help you cut along lines more carefully.
  
  When painting, dab trouble spots first and then: load that brush tip with paint. Don't be a wussy. Get some paint up there. The paint should not be dripping from the brush, but almost. Let your first few contacts with the surface deposit the most paint and then work it with your strokes. Yeaaaa... there you go. Nice!
  
  
  Painting can be quite fun. Fun for a couple of hours on day number one. Anything beyond that starts to be not fun. I suggest that unless it is a reasonably small project or if you are bored and have nothing else to do. Hire someone to paint.
  
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The Dunes

Erosion of the dunes puts the properties along the beach at risk. In an attempt to capture the sand and allow it to restore the dune, snow fence is installed on the seaward side of the dune. The wind blows the sand through, up and over the fence. Since the deposit of sand is protected by the existing dune behind and the wind direction predictable, the sand collects at the base of and behind the snow fence. In as few as 10 weeks, the sand level can rise to cover half the fence or more. Additional rows of fencing placed in front of each other can be installed to continue the process. By doing this, and by planting vegetation (American Sea Grass: Ammophila breviligulata) to hold the sand in place and to help continue the process, we can rebuild a substantial dune.